Updated: Sep 14, 2022
According to Grand View Research, the global baby care products market size was valued at USD 18.17 billion in 2020 and is expected to expand at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 4.3% from 2021 to 2028. The market has been witnessing rapid growth as consumer preferences are shifting towards high-quality, utility-driven, and premium baby products.
In the personal care industry it's becoming difficult to get truthful information and spot greenwashing.
Many brands are embracing the natural trend and steer away from synthetic products in the name of safety. Is it the best strategy?
Here are 5 things to take into consideration when formulating babycare that have nothing to do with the outdated Natural vs Synthetic debate:
1. Define the problem you want to solve
Efficacy is key!
Parents won't repurchase if they can't see results no matter how great your story telling, values and branding are.
You can ask yourself:
Is it for everyday use, specific concerns or playtime?
Is it going to be used to cleanse, massage or moisturise?
Is it preventative or restorative?
2. Know the specifics about baby skin
Healthy baby skin does not need special care but food, stress and environmental factors can easily disturb its fragile balance.
Babies have a higher skin surface area to body weight ratio than adults
Baby skin is thinner and more permeable than adult skin, the skin barrier is still developing
The delicate skin of babies is more vulnerable to external influences like irritants, temperature change or microbes
Their skin pH is higher than adults
Dry baby skin is a common challenge for parents
Blood-brain barrier is not fully developed, chemicals can potentially pass from the blood into the brain
3. Substantiate your claims
"Safe", "Gentle", "tear-free", "Soothing", ...
How do you know?
Some raw materials may be harsh when used pure but can easily be mitigated with other ingredients.
One example is the use of sulfates: too stripping apparently.
It's a pretty broad class of anionic surfactants with exceptional cleansing and foaming properties at an affordable price, which means they can be formulated optimally for their benefits without the drawbacks.
Don't let misinformation be the leading criteria for your choice of formulations and ingredients.
Make sure you have your finished product tested.
4. Categorise baby skin needs
Affected baby skin needs mild and gentle care to restore babysoft and healthy skin conditions.
We've classified these needs into 4 categories:
Skin barrier function enhancement
Soothing & calming irritation
Skin & scalp defense and protection
Skin & hair nutrition
Depending on the problem you want to solve, you may select ingredients from each category for optimal results.
5. Optimise your preservative system
"Preservative-free" is a forbidden claim in Europe because it's misleading and implies that products with preservatives are bad.
A better claim would be: "Optimised preservative system".
A preservative is by essence "nasty". It's not added in a formulation to play nice, it's there for a very important reason: making sure the end user can safely use the product without the risk of microbial contamination. Why would you not want to use preservatives?
Some antimicrobial ingredients are not listed as official preservatives but what's the point of claiming "preservative-free" if they're in fact used for this purpose?
Can you find the right balance between creating a gentle formulation and ensuring your product is bullet-proof?
Yes, by selecting an appropriate preservative blend, optimising your pH and your percentage as well as understanding how your preservative system interacts with the other ingredients in your formulation.
We work closely with Evonik who have over 3 decades of product protection expertise so please reach out to the Avenir team to learn the subtleties of preservation.
If you would like to delve more into the formulation of baby care products, we have done some preliminary research for you and selected ingredients and starting formulations to address baby skin needs.
You can reach out to Bruno at office@aveniringredients.com.au for more information.
A new financial year has started here in Australia!
It might be the start of new projects as well. Need some inspiration on ingredients, textures ans trends?
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Last month the Avenir team got away for a night in the Hunter valley to train with the amazing team at #1 and Why to refine our company commitment to our customers and get to know each other in a different context.
Long story short, we had a blast ;)
It's so important to take a bit of distance from the day to day tasks once in a while and look at our achievements and goals.
Thank you for reading.
Contact Bruno at @office@aveniringredients.com.au if you have any questions or feedback.
Have a wonderful day!
WHEN FOOD AND WELLNESS INFLUENCE THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY
What is Fermentation?
Fermentation is a metabolic process in which compounds are broken down by micro-organisms, such as bacteria and yeast, into simpler and smaller compounds such as enzymes, carbohydrates, amino acids, vitamins… We all consume fermented foods and drinks: wine, vinegar, kombucha, sauerkraut, bread, kefir, cheese, yogurt and the list goes on! Fermentation is a very effective process to increase preservation, improve nutrients bioavailability and ease digestion. Fermented food is also proven to be helpful for gut health which can support skin health.
New trend?
“The global fermented food and ingredient market is projected to grow from $512.19bn in 2018 to $689.34bn by 2023, bolstered by beauty brands.” Say WGSN Consumers increased focus on fermented food is now reflecting into beauty.
Fermentation seems to bring together naturality, science trust and efficacy. According to Mintel, 28% of all skin care products launched between December 2018 and November 2019 contained fermented ingredients; 54% of these products with ferments claimed anti-aging effects; and 16% of women in the United States reported they were interested in using skin care products containing fermented ingredients. If we look at Korea, fermented food and fermented skincare are old news.
We saw microbiome beauty soar during the global pandemic though, with a strong concern for skin barrier protection which propelled “biotics” to reach new heights. Fermented beauty is an extension of this trend. So how do these fermented ingredients work when applied directly onto the skin? Let’s try and decode what this trend is about and understand the different technologies and potential traps.
Are Ferments and Biotics the same?
Ferments are not all “biotics”. Let’s define biotics to lay the groundwork. The WHO (World Health Organization)/ FAO(Food and Agriculture Organization of the UN) define probiotics as “Live microorganisms, which when administered in adequate amounts, confer a health benefit on the host” (WHO/FAO, 2002).
While Gut dendritic cells are present outside the intestinal mucosa, Skin dendritic cells are only present in the dermis, which means that so-called Probiotics applied topically won't have much impact if they don't reach the dermis. Having said that, if living microorganisms were to penetrate into the skin, they would have a rather irritating effect which is not the intent at all.
There are no probiotics in topical products. What can be found in personal care products are probiotic lysates or filtrates which are cell-free, therefore not live and called: postbiotics. They can have “ferment” in their INCI.
Prebiotics are compounds rich in sugars and fibers that support the growth of beneficial bacteria and allowing them to better compete with detrimental ones. They can be plant extracts or the result of a fermentation process.
What does the INCI tell us about an ingredient?
Breaking news! If an ingredient contains “ferment” in the INCI, it means it’s derived from a fermentation process! It doesn’t mean it’s a postbiotic.
On the other hand, an ingredient can be obtained from a fermentation process and not showing it in its INCI, such as: - Squalatne - Sodium Hyaluronate - Ceramides - AHAs - Amino acids - Enzymatically esterified emollients Please note that the INCI is not enough to know an ingredient’s manufacturing process. Ask your supplier.
What are the fermentation benefits?
Fermentation enhances the effectiveness of natural ingredients by improving the quality of active phytochemicals and facilitating better skin absorption.
That’s the theory. But the biotechnology process itself can differ and result in different skin/ hair benefits. Lactobacillus Ginseng Root Ferment is Korean Red Ginseng fermented with Kimchi Lactobacillus. It offers smaller active molecules in higher concentration (Ginsenosides) than its non-fermented counterpart which provides better skin penetration. In vitro studies are used to substantiate some anti-aging benefits. In Vitro is a good start but nothing beats clinical trials.
Best to question the process to understand the ingredients benefits better:
- Is the ingredient obtained a by-product of the fermentation or an enzymatic cut of the actual plant extract?
- Which microorganism was used? How many?
- Is the strain used a new discovery with specific skin benefits or a lab strain?
- Is a smaller molecule always a sign of better efficacy?
- Is it a sustainable process?
The answers will guide you towards the right choice for what you’re trying to achieve and to make sure it matches your brand values.
Can fermentation support sustainability claims?
Ask your suppliers. Fermentation comes in many forms during a manufacturing process.
Let’s take isoamyl Laurate for instance, a light emollient. It can be produced via conventional esterification requiring high temperatures and creating large amounts of waste. It can also be produced by an ecoefficient enzymatic process leading to a minimised environmental footprint. Same INCI but very different impact.
Let’s take specific Marine Ferments: once a water sample is collected from a chosen location and the microorganism has been isolated, identified and characterised, it can be fermented over and over again and tested to confirm its expected benefits. There’s no need to keep harvesting, it’s all lab and computer work from there.
Market Trends
Here are some examples of international brands promoting fermented ingredients:
Where to from here?
There has been an increase in patent filings related to ferments, and many big brands in the beauty industry have started incorporating ferments into their products as next-generation natural ingredients. These brands will play a major role in creating awareness among beauty enthusiasts regarding the benefits of ferments.
Contact your preferred suppliers, discuss with them what you’re working on and find out about their fermented ingredients, their manufacturing process and substantiated claims. This way you can make informed choices and communicate clearly about your products with your customers and the end consumers.
This article was published earlier this month in the Science of Beauty Magazine June/ July 2022 edition.
You can access the whole magazine if you're an ASCC member.
